Bathing women break for conversation along the banks of the Ganges River in Varanasi.
Frequent Inside Scoop contributor and world traveler extraordinaire Howard A. is back again with an honest and insightful portrait of India. This article originally appeared in Howard’s local paper. If you’ve written about your trips and would like to be reprinted in The Inside Scoop, we’re all ears at [email protected].
By Howard A., 19-time traveler & 10-time Vacation Ambassador from Ashland, MA
I am often asked, "What is the most incredible destination that you have visited"? If the operative word is "incredible" then in my opinion, there is simply no place on planet earth that can compare to India. For the "exotic and unbelievable," it is unparalleled. As the home of 32 UNESCO World Heritage sites, the crossroads of six major religions, and with 22 official languages spoken, India is the ultimate travel experience. It is a one-of-a-kind vibrant cornucopia of sights, sounds, smells, and tastes that lasts a lifetime. If the unusual and mind boggling is what you seek, look no further.
A Disclaimer
India is not for everyone. It can be unbearably hot, and air quality is poor from smoke, dust, and vehicle emissions. Beggars abound, and you will see heart-wrenching sights that accompany overpopulation, poverty, and lack of health care. Animals of all types and sizes (dogs, goats, cows, bulls, monkeys, and the occasional camel or elephant) roam the streets freely, and are in fact part of the traffic pattern. Add to this bicycles, pedal rickshaws, motorized rickshaws, motor scooters, motorcycles, cars, trucks, tractors, buses, lots of humans (1.3 billion), and constant horn beeping. The traffic pattern in cities can be only be described as "functional anarchy." There is trash everywhere, and the "holy" cows that roam freely leave their calling cards in their wake. No matter how careful you are, at some point you are going to "step in it." Get over all these discomforts. This is the price that must be paid for the incredible experience that lies ahead. India is an adventure, not a vacation.
In New Delhi
Any tour to India should include New Delhi with its ancient Chandni Chowk street market and architectural wonders such as the Old Jama Masjid Islamic Mosque, a structural marvel and not to be missed. As India’s largest mosque it is capable of accommodating more than 25,000 devotees during prayer. The Sikh equivalent, Gurudwara Bangla Sahib, is an equally impressive structure. You will be openly welcomed at both. Although primarily a Hindu nation (80.5% of the population), Muslims and Sikhs represent 15 % and 2% of India’s population respectively.
In Jaipur
Jaipur’s Palace of the Winds.
Buildings in the "Pink City" of Jaipur are made exclusively from pink stone. In 1876, the Prince of Wales and Queen Victoria visited Jaipur. Pink denotes the color of hospitality, and Jaipur’s Maharaja Ram Singh ordered the entire city painted pink to welcome the guests. The tradition has been followed ever since, and is now required by law. Among the many attractions here, I recommend visiting the City Complex, Amber Fort, Sheesh Mahal (Hall of Mirrors), and the Palace of the Winds, at a minimum. Jaipur is one of the world’s most beautiful and charming cities.
The Taj
The incomparable Taj Mahal in Agra.
Any trip to India would be incomplete without a pilgrimage to the spectacular Taj Mahal in Agra. The "Taj" was constructed by Shah Jahan in 1631, as a tribute to his beloved wife who died giving birth to their 14th child. Your initial view of the Taj is breathtaking, and the scale of it is hard to comprehend. This 240-foot-tall structure with its 115-foot-high dome is approached by following the reflecting pool inward from the main entrance. As you approach, the Taj seems to be constantly getting larger in a disproportionate scale. Its beautiful white marble is both stunning and soothing. As perhaps the defining symbol of India, it draws visitors from across the globe.
The Pushkar Camel Fair
All of the above cities and attractions should be part of the itinerary on any quality tour. The focus of this article however, is two "off the charts" places that are not on most itineraries, but absolutely worth seeking out. You might consider planning your trip around the annual Pushkar Camel Fair, where for five days each November at the time of the Kartik Purnima full moon, the small village of Pushkar hosts one of the world’s great spectacles. Hundreds of colorfully dressed camel herders and their families from all over northern India bring more than 50,000 camels and 8,000 horses here to buy, sell, and trade.
Watch carefully as the prospective camel buyer examines each animal’s teeth, hooves, eyes, ears, and flanks in an attempt to determine the animal’s age and health. Traders negotiate, and the discussions around the sale of a single animal can go on for the full five days, and involve many cups of tea and lengthy discussions in each trader’s tent. It is fascinating to watch each party’s body language and strategy, knowing that in the end, both want to make the transaction happen, but only at a price acceptable to each.
As an outdoor event, lodging for herders and visitors alike is in usually in tents, as Pushkar’s few formal lodgings are booked years in advance. You may be invited into the tent of a camel trader and his family for tea. Do oblige them. The Indian people are warm and hospitable, and this it is their way of welcoming you. You will be treated as a respected guest, and this will be an experience you will always cherish.
There are many unique events held here including the longest moustache contest, the beautiful bride contest, and various camel parades. My favorite was the camel beauty contest in which the animals are dressed in colorful silks, decorated with lipstick, mascara, and ornate jewelry, and judged by panel of "camel beauty experts." There are countless stalls at the fair, selling jewelry, clothing, textiles, and camel related paraphernalia. Pushkar is a carnival spectacle on an epic scale. Expect to see the unexpected here including magicians, colorful gypsy dancers, acrobats, performing monkeys, snake charmers, and Sadhus (Indian holy men). As you scan the horizon in a 360-degree arc, you see tens of thousands of camels. Like so many things in India, the Pushkar Camel Fair is larger than life itself.
Varanasi: The Unrivaled Experience
Varanasi is India’s holiest city, and is located on the Ganges—India’s holiest river. As the world’s oldest continuously populated city, it has remained inhabited without interruption for over 4,000 years. Along its winding streets are some 23,000 temples ranging from simple to spectacular. There is no place like Varanasi on earth!
Sunrise on the steps of the Ganges here is vibrantly colorful and cannot be described in words. Each morning, more than six thousand colorfully dressed men and women arrive before sunrise to chant, meditate, worship, and bathe in the "Mother River." You will feel brilliantly alive in the cool morning air as a flaming red sun rises, and you watch this ancient ritual that represents a spiritually passionate celebration of human existence. There is a palpable and forceful feeling of being alive here.
This daily party-like ritual goes on literally amongst the many funeral pyres that burn the recently deceased in a ritualistic and respectful, but matter-of-fact manner. These cremations go on non-stop around the clock regardless of weather, and burn approximately 25,000 to 30,000 bodies annually. Each pyre is said to be lit from an "eternal flame" that has remained unextinguished since 1200 BC. Cremation is extremely important for Hindus. They believe it releases an individual's spiritual core from its transitory physical body, so that reincarnation can take place. If the body is not cremated or not cremated properly, the soul will not be at peace in the afterlife. As the furnace-like flames from the blazing pyres singed my face and sweat burned my eyes, my pulse quickened and I could feel the blood throbbing in my veins. I found myself pondering the contrast between how we handle death in such a secretive and uncomfortable manner in the West, and how matter-of-fact and out in the open it is here. I have witnessed funeral practices on six continents, and none was as transparent as what I was witnessing here.
The funeral pyres of Varanasi by night.
Amidst the sights, sounds, and smells, formidable statues of the Hindu gods Brahma (the Creator), Vishnu (the Preserver), and Shiva (the Destroyer), look down watchfully from the tops of the ancient buildings above the steps leading to the Ganges. Life and death are both celebrated here with equal intensity and measure. Colorfully adorned Sadhus (holy men) with long beards, painted faces, and little clothing, sit by in a silent meditative state, adding a surreal element to the already surreal. There is little sadness associated with death here, as Hinduism is about the infinite cycle of life, death, and rebirth. Death is considered a natural part of this endless wheel. It is every Hindu’s wish to be cremated on the bank of this river. Sadly, for those who cannot afford this process, the body is often taken by boat, weighted, and dumped. Although I did not personally see bodies floating in the river, regular sightings are a well-documented fact. Amongst the burning pyres, holy cows wander, young boys play, and packs of wild dogs sit in the still-warm ashes, attempting to stay warm in the cool morning air. The dogs are numerous, and look healthy. You can connect the dots.
You Will Never be the Same
Remember my disclaimer? "India is not for everyone." India is undeniably a journey of learning, discovery, and spiritual awakening. It answers many questions but leaves you with more. Your heart will be touched by the warm, engaging, and sincere Indian people who treat you as family in their amazing and unique country. You will have seen the unbelievable, the unimaginable, and the indescribable. Your senses have been heightened and sharpened. You will return changed in many ways. The experience of India affects each person differently, but affects all. India is Technicolor and surround sound multiplied tenfold. Having experienced many exotic countries including Myanmar, Morocco, Tibet, Cambodia, Russia, China, Bali, Guatemala, and eight countries on the African continent, I can assure you that India is unique and beyond compare. Your mileage may vary.
Find yourself forever changed by India—and consider a special departure during the Pushkar Camel Fair—with O.A.T. during Heart of India. Glimpse the funeral practices of Varanasi in this short film:
Produced by Cynthia Younker
